Arca and Nu restaurants in Tulum deliver a contemporary Mexican restaurant riff on the country’s storied food history.
Open: Tues-Sun from 6 p.m. arcatulum.comOpen: Mon-Sun from 6:30 pm. nutulum.com
Tulum bewitched Jose Luis Hinostroza, one of the Noma chefs. Born in San Diego, he boomeranged between California and Tijuana. He’d previously worked at Alinea in Chicago and El Cellar de Can Roca in Spain, both international top of radar darlings. Previous jungle experiences in Peru and India involved black caimans staring unblinkingly, rowing in a dugout canoe on a lake with anacondas, and fresh tiger tracks on a jungle walk. This wasn’t as wild except for the flames leaping from the grill and in the outdoor kitchen.
A half roasted local squash intensified the squash experience fivefold with sauteed squash greens, squash flowers, toasted squash seeds, and squash seed sauce. Dessert was like a magic trick. A half mamey wore tiger stripes from the grill. In the hollowed cavity, a white chocolate mousse tasted like amaretto thanks to roasted mamey seeds.• Not far from Arca, Nu is another contemporary Mexican restaurant riff on the country’s storied food history using fire and smoke.
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