From ginger beef to ‘Bon Bon ribs,’ Chinese-Canadian cuisine tells a unique story about our country

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From ginger beef to ‘Bon Bon ribs,’ Chinese-Canadian cuisine tells a unique story about our country
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From ginger beef to 'Bon Bon ribs,' Chinese-Canadian cuisine tells a unique story about our country via nparts

If there’s a single dining experience you can count on in small-town Canada, it’s found at the local Chinese restaurant. Long before chains like Subway or KFC made their way up the Sunshine Coast to my hometown of Powell River, B.C. , the Gourmet Canton provided piping hot wonton soup, sticky sweet and sour pork, and chow mein loaded with crisp water chestnuts for family get-togethers and takeout nights.

In Chop Suey Nation, Hui puts a unique spin on the subject as she explores her own perceptions of Chinese-Canadian cuisine, its historical and cultural significance, and the stories of families carrying on the tradition in small towns from coast to coast.

Growing up in Vancouver, Hui was raised on what she thought of as “real” Chinese food — marinated duck wings, jellyfish salad and fish maw soup — and exposed to an “amazingly diverse” array of regional cuisines at many of the city’s exceptional Chinese restaurants.

“It was a stunning realization. My first instinct was just to feel pretty foolish having gone through this experience of driving across the country, visiting and meeting all of these families, and asking them these questions about their histories and their stories only to realize that the same story had played out literally in my own backyard,” says Hui.

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