Chef Ivan Orkin shares the essentials for mastering this simple and satisfying Japanese sandwich
pick. He calls them the"first cousins to the Wonder Bread sandwiches you ate from a paper bag as a kid," equal parts nostalgic and satisfying.
Orkin grew up eating stacked deli meat sandwiches in New York City, the polar opposite of the simple sando. But after spending the better part of three decades living in Japan and operating two popular Tokyo ramen shops, the got to know them quite well. Usually they were eaten while running to catch a train with his kids, grabbing an artful box from a Tonkatsu Maisen department store kiosk, or as a late-night snack with his co-writer Chris Ying at a convenience store like Lawson's.
Once a sando is assembled, with sauces slathered on both pieces of bread and the meat cut to perfectly fit between them, it is cut in half diagonally in convenience store wrappers or into thirds to show off the layers in boxes. The latter is the style that has become highly Instagrammable in America, thanks to restaurants likein Los Angeles.
seen through the eyes of the Japanese, so nothing groundbreaking, but I'll say it's still gratifying to see people embrace it so much."Although Orkin feels it's best to stick to tradition with just milk bread, katsu, Kewpie mayo, and Bull-Dog tonkatsu sauce, he doesn't want to"be the cooking police" for home cooks if they want to add their favorite relish or pickled onions to their sandos.
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