When it's time to party, make it saber time.
Late one night, having consumed the exact quantity of wine that makes this sort of thing seem like a good idea, I watched, giggling, as sommelier Ashley Santoro tried to open a bottle of sparkling wine with an iron.
In one possible origin story of sabering from 1814, Prussian troops are said to have broken off the necks of Champagne bottles because they were annoyed by corked bottles topped with a wire cage.I’m a bit of a Hussars fangirl, and thus have a slight preference for the former theory. To be more specific, I’m obsessed with Ridley Scott’s 1977 directorial debut, “The Duellists,” which stars a young Harvey Keitel and even younger Keith Carradine as Hussars in Napoleon’s army.
“Give me enough Champagne and I’ll pretty much saber with anything,” says Santoro, who is now a regional beverage director for the Standard Hotels and a partner in the New York wine shop Leisir. Her favorite implements? A waiter’s friend-style wine key and a hardcover book. Pearl & Ash closed in 2016, and Cappiello is now a winemaker, importer and distributor. But Pearl & Ash’s short run belies its influence: It was the inspiration for many of the punky, small-plates, wine-forward restaurants that flourish today.
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