Valentino Couture Fall 2019

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Valentino Couture Fall 2019
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In another stellar outing, Valentino's Pierpaolo Piccioli claimed his place at the pinnacle of couture.

The magic continues. On Wednesday night at the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli staged another dazzling show. Make that an event, one without the bells and whistles of a major set, but with a high-intensity front row that itself dazzled — Gwyneth Paltrow and Celine Dion in white, and Piccioli’s new BFF Naomi Campbell, who didn’t get the white memo and instead rocked hot pink stripes and a floppy hat.

The audience settled in for the latest turn in a brilliant series that has catapulted Piccioli to the forefront of the haute oeuvre. After the passing of Karl Lagerfeld and with John Galliano doing fascinating experimental work at Maison Margiela, Piccioli is its undisputed leader. His belief in couture’s ongoing relevance is well-known, including that even haute can espouse inclusivity as indicated by last season’s casting of mostly black models.

“It’s important today to dream of a world without boundaries, where everyone can live their own routes, everywhere. It’s just a dream, of course,” Piccioli said during a preview. The sartorial realization of that philosophy is now also well-known — the color, the romance, the influence; Piccioli’s ethereal, sweeping trapeze shapes have inspired designers around the world. What gets less attention: his audacity.

If you’re the kind of person who can be moved by clothes, Piccioli’s shoved you into the next time zone. The emotion only heightened when he came out for his bow with his entire atelier staff, sharing with them the audience’s enthralled appreciation. The white-coated atelier brigade, in turn, lingered, each paying individual respect to Mr. Valentino. Bellissimo, in every way.

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