To go beyond what commercial fishermen were able to source for his restaurant, Erizo, Eater Young Gun Jacob Harth (’19) got a fishing license, using it to collect items few other chefs employ
On the ground with the future leaders of the restaurant world
This is where Harth and Van Eck have been gathering the seaweed he uses at Erizo since the winter. A few months ago, they would have been out here with headlamps and heavy coats in the dark. Once the weather was so bad, Harth recalls, there was sideways rain coming up from the tidal rocks, hitting them from all angles. But today the sun is shining. Harth explains that when you see flowers popping up on your yard in spring, the same thing is happening in the ocean.
Harth did have to get a commercial license to be able to harvest for his restaurant, but he wants to support fishermen by buying seafood that has a commercial market, things like black cod or even wolf eel and octopus bycatch. It took Harth years to find suppliers that could tell him exactly where and when each fish was caught, a level of transparency he wanted in his seafood but that can be hard to come by.
It would be easy to dine at the restaurant and miss just how much work has gone into obtaining every item on your plate. Harth doesn’t make a show out of the restaurant’s mission. “I think there’s a time and a place for education with these kinds of things,” he says, “and it’s not while you’re eating dinner.” He’s hoping, instead, to introduce people to these products, fresh from the Oregon coast, to show diners that there’s more than overharvested salmon or tuna in the sea.
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