Deep in Hawaiian cowboy country, female Pau riders keep family traditions alive.
The hour-and-change drive across the island of Hawaii, from Hilo to Puuanahulu, curves along a highway partly carved into lava rock. Along that scenic route, the landscape changes drastically. Hilo’s lush flora slowly starts to recede and the sky opens up to reveal wide open land and grassy plains, verdant rolling hills and lava fields covered in deep pink and forest green moss.
This land has been passed down for years and years; Bertelmann can trace it back at least 15 generations. Her great-great-grandfather owned a set of plow horses and lived a bit further down the sloping terrain, and she later shows me an old framed photograph of her grandfather and granduncles, knee-deep in the water of the nearby Kiholo Bay, guiding cattle onto a ship headed for Honolulu, where the cows would then be shipped off and exported for their meat and their hides.
skirts, a garment rooted in the early equestrian practices of the women, like Bertelmann, who hailed fromIn addition to running her family’s cattle operations, Bertelmann has worked the past nine years as a livestock administrative assistant at the nearby Parker Ranch, one of the largest in Hawaii. It’s the very same ranch where her father, Robert Kamuela “Sonny” Keakealani Jr.
Lai and Kaio in generations-old bridesmaid dresses that have been passed down from their grandparents’ wedding.Now, there are annual parades, named after the once purely practical garment. In the same way that Bertelmann inherited her love of riding, each island’sparticipates from childhood, starting even as young as two years old. “We were born into it,” says Keakealani. “My children were born into it. It’s just your life.
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