Anthony Gismondi: There's nothing like the dawn of a new vintage

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Anthony Gismondi: There's nothing like the dawn of a new vintage
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B.C.’s Pinot Noir is gaining an excellent reputation for quality

Spring signals renewal for those who work the land. In wine it’s all about the vineyards and with early pruning chores all but complete across B.C. it’s only a matter of time before the buds of 2020 begin their “push” — in viticultural parlance — signalling the start of a new vintage.

That means you should expect to find more Albariño, Auxerrois, Chenin Blanc, Gamay Noir, Grenache, Marsanne, Ortega, Petit Milo, Petit Verdot, Roussanne, Verdejo and Zweigelt in tasting rooms before we even consider the likes of Vermentino, Tannat, Nero D’avola and hundreds of others. It is true the so-called heartbreak grape can be finicky, but with experience and care it can also be tamed, save for some disastrous weather. What makes it so interesting is its ability to interpret its site, and if made gently it can deliver numerous nuances in the glass. With so many clones to choose from and many of those mutations of decades of growth the possibility to produce complex Pinot is begging to become a reality in B.C.

This is such a delicious bottle of Pinot Noir it makes you want to jump on a ferry to Vancouver Island and visit this tiny Sidney-based winery, located minutes from Swartz Bay. The 2015 is textbook, cool-climate Pinot with just an extra hint of ripeness due to the warm year. Bright, round, intense, crisp, steely, cool red fruits spill across the palate and persist for a long time.

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