Why top chefs take their choice of the humble pepper so seriously

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Why top chefs take their choice of the humble pepper so seriously
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They glean valuable insights into a highly favoured selection of Asian peppercorns and their delectable versatile qualities.

Navarra was admittedly excited about using it in an updated take on the daing na bangus — where fatty milkfish that is marinated in a similar combination of vinegar, crushed peppercorn, garlic and salt is deep-fried to a golden crisp.Quality peppercorns from Sarawak are also favoured at Singapore stalwart Red House Seafood restaurant, whose fans of its ubiquitous black pepper crab dish have been returning for since 1976.

It may seem a lot to ask from the humble peppercorn, but such nuanced attributes are not uncommon in the highly prized varieties. “Premium Sri Lankan peppercorns have different layers of flavour and aroma to them, and that includes a citrus, floral, berry notes and a milder heat that rounds out their flavour and makes it more balanced,” shared Rishi Naleendra, the maestro behind acclaimed modern outfits Cloudstreet and Fool wine bar.

Over at Cloudstreet, black Kampot pepper is used to provide a similar contrast, not to mention an overall balance of robust flavours, in a course of aged duck that’s roasted and glazed, and served with a white beetroot tarte tatin and some chicory. “We use the pepper in a spice mix to season the skin, as the pepper is so fragrant and herbaceous,” revealed Naleendra, whose cuisine style here espouses a contemporary amalgamation of culinary influences and seasonal ingredients.

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