Discover why one writer is pro the anti-fashion look.
Photo: Courtesy of Our LegacyI’m starting to think it’s time to give the whole flex thing in fashion a rest. Apart from red carpets, the tendency toward fanciness and flamboyancy seems out of pace not only with the work-from-home mentality but also the somber tenor of times shaped by the endless pandemic and looming inflation.
What I responded to most from the spring 2022 season was what I’ve been calling the anti-fashion collections—Our Legacy, parts of Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta, Lemaire, Margaret Howell—which included takes on pieces that belong to nobody and everyone.
If we’re going to create a values-driven industry, we need to believe that style must come with substance, and that individuals are more than the sum of the objects they have collected or “liked.” Maybe the normalcy of anti-fashion could bring us closer to that point.Photo: Stuart Lutz / Gado / Getty ImagesAt the Vortex 1: A Biodegradable Festival of Life music festival, August 1970.What is anti-fashion? An oxymoron, for starters.
Grunge and its contemporary cousin normcore also fit into the anti-fashion mold. Writing about the former inin 1990, journalist Nicola Jean noted that the “clothes could be described as anti-fashion, but it is really reverse chic; a more subtle form of conspicuous consumption directed to one’s peers, not intended to impress the multitude, but to identify you as one of the group.” A group of outsiders, that is.
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