Why Germany calls this vegetable 'white gold.'
. German winters are a shock—the sun rises after eight and sets before four, the streets smell like coal, everything is chapped. I know that we must endure eight more weeks of this Central European cloud cover and pallid false sun before the dam bursts, spring comes, and spargel, or white asparagus, appears in every supermarket, street-corner stand, and Sunday-dinner plate in the country.
“Pasta is my go-to meal here in the states. I wonder what my go-to meal in Germany will be. Giant pretzels?” I half-joked. , the beloved caffeinated drink for hackers and coders, or of the two-euro cappuccinos I used to buy in glass cups, or of the Turkish döner boxes of fries topped with meat, garlic and spicy sauce.Spargel is popular elsewhere, too—you can catch it at a market in France, and even in some American supermarkets these days—but Germans are its true devotees. As of 2018, they are the fourth-highest growers of spargel in the world.
Spargel cultivation was restricted during the war because it didn’t have enough calories to make it worthwhile, neither was it able to flourish in East Germany on a large scale. But there, it endured in home gardens where communism couldn’t stop the vegetable’s devotees. Germans continued to grow, barter, and sell it to each other secretly—and sometimes export it to West Berlin, with permission. With the, western spargel farmers headed east to return this beloved crop to the soil.
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