Texans know: These chewy, buttery beauties are a state treasure. But where did they come from?
Like you, the H-E-B flour tortilla has accepted the fact that it is imperfect. It’s okay with that. That’s part of the reason everyone loves it so much. Its little quirks. Like the lumpy, bumpy, not-quite-circular shape. Some air bubbles here and there. An edge that’s folded over a bit, like a teenage ear awaiting a piercing. These are signs that the precious H-E-B tortilla is homemade. Or as close to homemade as you can get in a 68,000-square-foot grocery store along the Houston interstate.
At 4 a.m. every morning, the bakers at H-E-B’s in-store tortillerias start pulling and pressing from a huge ball of dough delivered to the store from some place mysterious and, I assume, very sanitary. For the regular flour tortillas, it’s a mix of wheat flour, palm oil, salt, and leaveners. Depending on the store and its customer base, there might be three shifts of tortilla bakers to meet demand.
. The ones made with butter are No. 3, but those are the inarguable best. They taste of butter. It’s one note, but the note isAfter I moved to New York, I’d visit my sister in Houston and we’d hit up the H-E-B in Montrose so I could stock up on tortillas. I’d ask for them for Christmas, so my dad would mail them to me along with Bob’s Texas-style jalapeño kettle chips, paying more in express shipping than the cost of the contents within, unless you can put a price on nostalgia .
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