Everything you need to know about the pork-laden plates of the country’s oldest barbecue style
that Bum’s would die with him, given that he had no son, only daughters, to carry on the tradition. Martin says that when he was introduced to whole hog barbecue in Henderson, Tennessee in 1990, there were six barbecue restaurants in the town . Now, there are none.
Tiffani Faison opened Boston barbecue restaurant Sweet Cheeks doing Texas-style barbecue, “in theory.” Most important to Faison was letting the meat shine, but “because we are not in the middle of a regional barbecue identity, we also wanted our guests to have the experience they want to have,” she says. As an example, diners at Sweet Cheeks can put sauce on their meat, or not. “We didn’t want to create any barriers to people enjoying it if that’s what they wanted.
Although Ho found the space for a pit in Brooklyn, securing the rest of the whole hog setup took some work. The smoker was the first logistical hurdle: “It’s not a product that you can just buy. You need to get someone to order it for you,” he says. And although Ho says it’s easy enough to purchase a whole pig from a supplier in his area, the pigs usually aren’t big enough for whole hog barbecue.
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