White wines with a difference | David Williams

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White wines with a difference | David Williams
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How winemaking decisions affect the way white wine tastes. By David Williams

Photograph: Miguel Medina/AFP/Getty ImagesPhotograph: Miguel Medina/AFP/Getty ImagesThe wine business has spent much of the past couple of decades playing down the role of the winemaker. The idea is that the vigneron is effectively not much more than a chaperone, keeping a watchful eye on the grapes as they make their inevitable passage from juice to wine, but stepping in only when strictly necessary.

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