Almost a century ago, fried chicken was given a spicy twist in Tennessee's state capital. Today you'll find it in a host of forms all over the city
“Oh, bless your heart,” says the hostess at Bolton’s Spicy Chicken and Fish. I’ve just ordered fried chicken legs — hot — with fries and slaw. Her response is a commonly heard Southern expression that sounds saintly but can also seem faintly disparaging. I step out of the family-owned joint — a shabby shack with a sun-faded fish mural — and park myself at a picnic table.
Opened in 1997, Bolton’s is a city institution. My chicken arrives blackened from the spice rub, and is too hot to touch, but I throw caution to the wind. As I take a bite, the habanero hits my nostrils. It’s incredibly spicy, but there’s a tune to this symphony of chillies. There’s sweetness before the habanero heat hits. The taste is surprisingly botanical, as the spices dance from inside my mouth to my lips, and although I’m sweating, I can’t stop eating.
After a few years, the BBQ Chicken Shack moved close to the Ryman Auditorium, where it gained a cult following among the city’s country music stars during the post-war heyday of the Grand Ole Opry. In the following decades, Prince relocated his shack several times around the city, eventually changing its name to Prince’s Hot Chicken in 1980, when André Prince Jeffries, his great-niece, took over.
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