“We Don’t Change to Suit Anyone but Ourselves”—What to Expect When Telfar Takes Over Pitti Uomo Tonight

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“We Don’t Change to Suit Anyone but Ourselves”—What to Expect When Telfar Takes Over Pitti Uomo Tonight
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America's best export arrives in Florence's menswear festival.

No sound is more common at Pitti Uomo’s menswear festival in Florence than a Prosecco-flavored, slightly jet-lagged, and drawn-out gasp. You can hear it daily, almost hourly, at appointments and at runway shows when the modest wooden doors of palazzi are flung open and fashion gents saunter into glorious foyers, sometimes lit by candlelight.

What Telfar the brand means is basic clothing rooted in the 20th-century codes of American dress—but not basic as it’s defined by mainstream culture. Mainstream basic is Silicon Valley direct-to-consumer recycled plastic jeans and tees designed to appeal to a Christian-Girl-Autumn demographic of pumpkin spice lattes and inspirational Instagram quotes. Basic in this sense of the word is a personal statement of socio-political power. Telfar’s basic is a direct challenge to that.

“When you see the techniques we’re using, it reminds you of techniques you might see in a Renaissance painting, but I wanted it to feel new,” says Clemens. He gestures across the room to a T-shirt with looped braiding details. “This braiding technique is something you see in clothes that you get on Miami Beach. It’s like a beach-vacation technique that we’re doing in all these different ways to create volume, cinching, short waists, necklines.

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