Guram Gvasalia launched the Vetements offshoot VTMNTS going on two years ago, as an all-genders collection with a strong foundation in tailoring and more than a whiff of the provocative Vetements attitude. See the fall 2023 VTMNTS collection here:
Guram Gvasalia launched the Vetements offshoot VTMNTS going on two years ago, as an all-genders collection with a strong foundation in tailoring and more than a whiff of the provocative Vetements attitude. We got our first and only IRL look at the label on the Paris runway last March; the vibe then leaned fierce with at least one model bearing bruises and scrapes and a hard-charging soundtrack.
On a call from the company’s headquarters today, Gvasalia spoke just as intensely about the clothes, maybe more so given the moment. “There are no gimmicks, no messages, no overthinking,” he said. “It’s clothing with no strings attached.” The expense of the runway, the spectacle of the celebrities in the front row—those costs get factored into the price of clothes, he pointed out.
The idea, instead, was to create essentials, “really good quality clothes at the best possible prices.” What that translates to is a lineup of elevated everyday garments—double-breasted suits, button-downs, trenches, letterman jackets, and an array of denim, all of it nearly entirely devoid of graphics or prints. Most of it was photographed theirs-and-theirs style. Of course, the same outfit looks different on differently gendered bodies.
A cropped puffer is worn by the female model and the full-sized puffer by the male, but it could just as easily have been the other way around. Last season at VTMNTS, the midriff was an all-gender erogenous zone. Overall, though, the message was one of restraint, not flash. Economic crisis, global conflict—we didn’t even get around to talking about A.I. chatbots. There’s enough noise in the world. “Clothes don’t need to scream,” he said, “to be something you love.
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