Two cookbooks showcase rare heirloom recipes of the Chetti Melaka community

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Two cookbooks showcase rare heirloom recipes of the Chetti Melaka community
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Two books on the rare Indian Peranakan art of cooking shed light on heirloom recipes.

Indian Peranakan recipes from the two books, Heritage Food Of The Peranakan Indians: In A Chitty Melaka Kitchen and The Melaka Chetti Kitchen: Culinary Journey Of 500 Years.

Both books contain numerous classic recipes of the Chetti Melaka people, who are the oldest Peranakan group in South-east Asia. The community, which traces its ancestry to 15th-century Melaka, descended from South Indian merchants, mainly Tamils, who married women of Malay, Chinese, Javanese and Batak descent.

The Chinese Peranakans, also called “Peranakan Cina” in Malay, are believed to have settled in Melaka around the 16th century, according to BiblioAsia, a publication of the National Library of Singapore. It includes a QR code that links to a pop-up animation feature explaining key aspects of Chetti heritage. It was a design collaboration between the association and students from Lasalle College of the Arts.

Also, because of intermarriage over the centuries, various elements of Malay and Peranakan Chinese cuisine have become part of the ancestral heritage. The book is available at selected local outlets such as Basheer Graphic Books and Books Kinokuniya, but stocks are running low – there are fewer than 500 copies available from the first print run of 2,000 books.

Malaysia-based academic Dr Neo, a Unesco programme leader of Intangible Cultural Heritage at the Institute of Ethnic Studies in the National University of Malaya, felt there was an urgent need to document the recipes and culinary rituals of the Chetti Melaka community before the practices disappear. His family descended from Mr Tan Tock Seng , one of Singapore’s eminent philanthropists, who built Tan Tock Seng Hospital in Singapore in 1844.

There is also kuah lada ikan bilis, a dish of dried anchovies and potatoes cooked in a peppery fish curry with tartness from tamarind juice. He observes that Indian Peranakans in Melaka speak a Chetti language comprising Malay, Tamil and Hokkien at home, but rarely their mother tongue, which is Tamil.

For instance, Cheng Beng in Malaysia is observed as Naik Bukit by the Chettis in Melaka. Special dishes of significance to the ancestors are placed on banana leaves and bunga rampay . “The Melaka Chetti absorbed influences from around them and made rituals uniquely their own,” says Dr Neo.

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