Soup season in Tuscany doesn't end once spring begins, but it does mean the soups start to take a different tone.
Garmugia, for example, a specialty of the city of Lucca, bridges the seasons by marrying a hearty backbone of pancetta, meat stock, and ground beef or veal with freshly picked artichokes, peas, fava beans and asparagus — the first tender vegetables of spring. Like the season itself, garmugia bursts with contrasts, at once tender and bold, simultaneously lushly green yet robust and meaty.
For the garmugia-inspired soup from our book “Tuesday Nights Mediterranean,” which features weeknight-friendly meals from the region, we pared down on the meat but use pancetta and beef broth so the finished dish is satisfying without being heavy. And we simmer a Parmesan rind in the mix to boost the umami notes.
Make sure to not use too-slender asparagus, which will end up overcooked. Look for spears about the size of a pencil. And to retain the bright-green color of the peas, don’t allow the soup to boil after the peas are stirred in.
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