Tried and True: San Antonio craft brewers are helping classic beer styles make a comeback

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Tried and True: San Antonio craft brewers are helping classic beer styles make a comeback
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Classic styles, while never gone, seem to be finding new fans in San Antonio, even as sweet beers and hazy IPAs continue to be popular. SanAntonio SATX SanAntonioTX TexasBeer CraftBeer CraftBrewing TexasBreweries

"I wish I had a lot of forethought to know classic styles would come back around," said Randy Ward, brewer of the High Wheel line of beers and co-owner at Dorćol Distilling + Brewing Co. Instead, Ward just set out to brew what he enjoyed and wanted to share that with others.

English ale imports such as the creamy Boddingtons and Newcastle Brown Ale, along with German lagers including Paulaner's hefeweizens, Oktoberfest Märzens and crisp helles provided Ward's introduction to the wider world of beer in the early days. They also informed his eventual foray into homebrewing and professional beer making.

High Wheel's biggest seller, which is on draft and in cans and retailers such as H-E-B, is a classic Kolsch beer dubbed Betty, and it makes up half of the brewery's sales. An Irish red ale, a roasty porter, a West Coast-style IPA and a Belgian farmhouse beer-inspired saison round out the regular offerings.In 2017, there were fewer than 200 Kolsch-style beers entered in that category for judging at the Great American Beer Festival.

Ward says he's now venturing into the hazy, New England-style IPA trend, but only after having spent time at the Vermont brewery where the style was created and learning the dos and don'ts of making it right. "It makes the industry so much better that there are people out there doing creative stuff," Ward said."But sometimes someone just dives in there and starts throwing things together. ... You have to walk before you can run."

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