Tracing the Roots of Gumbo

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Tracing the Roots of Gumbo
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Gumbo is a fusion of culinary creativity and fucked-up history that all landed in one massive pot

I prefer a roux-based gumbo. It’s what I learned to make from my mother. It’s the kind my mother learned to make from her mother. And the kind my grandmother learned to make from her mother, who was born into slavery in Napoleonville, Louisiana.

While the roots of gumbo are undeniably African, many other influences informed the style in which it is cooked today across cultures and locales. Gumbo is an adaptable dish.

The forced fusion of food, a byproduct of America’s original sin, is why generations of my family learned to make gumbo from a roux. The roux represents the French and/or Creole influences on the dish, which go back to the lineage of people who occupied and colonized Louisiana before it was sold to America, and that lineage and tradition of cooking has lasted for centuries. Gumbo became a regional staple across many states in the South.

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