Food critic Tom Sietsema’s picks this month include a sleek Korean barbecue restaurant, an Ethiopian draw with an attractive patio and an American beauty.
My only regret about this airy restaurant with a California lilt is that I don’t live closer. Katarina Petonito is one of those chefs who knows not to overdo it with good ingredients. Runner beans don’t need much more than some char from a hot skillet and a tomato vinaigrette to make them blossom and meaty dorade is a fish that takes well to red wine verjus stained with pomegranate molasses.Indeed, sauces are her ace in the hole.
Joon also makes a stellar duck fesenjoon featuring fresh duck legs and a thick blanket of pureed walnuts, pomegranate molasses and garlic; sharing the plate is a round of steamed rice sporting a crisp, saffron-colored top, the prize known as tadhig. Slow-cooked lamb shoulder, lavished with spices and garnished with apricots and dates, is banquet enough for eight hungry diners.
Iran is famous for its hospitality, evinced here when you leave your car with a free valet parker and settle in with gratis bread service: fresh lavash and a trio of spreads.
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