A classic Chinese joint in Rockville, a top-notch Japanese spot downtown and a fabulous Thai place in Falls Church are among the restaurants keeping food critic Tom Sietsema happy lately.
in Washington and went on to open restaurants of his own in such far-flung spots as Panama, Mexico and Brazil. With passion as its theme, Dear Sushi issues a faux love letter of a menu to guests, who are tickled to see the heart shapes created when soy sauce is poured into saucers.The omakase, or chef’s choice, starts with some snacks and hand rolls, one black with nori and filled with tuna, sweet Tokyo green onions and wasabi, the second white with soy paper and stuffed with warm crab.
In the heat of summer, the kitchen offered a fetching “strawberry” — strawberry mousse and jam robed in white chocolate — on a pale green butter cookie: a light bite after some bright lights.Elephant Jumps The kitchen doesn’t pull any punches. One bite into the truly “spicy” papaya salad with shrimp and pork rinds and my buddy, a dedicated hothead, is calling for “a refill of ice water and a fire extinguisher, please.”No one comes for the decor, which consists of some framed elephant tapestries and a list of specials written in colored chalk in a square, 32-seat dining room overlooking a parking lot in the Yorktowne Shopping Center.
Then again, your eyes are probably trained on what’s on the table — optimally fried, basil-laced soft-shell crabs when they’re in season and banana blossom salad when it appears as a special. The salad sounds like a pleasant melody but eats like a bugle blast, what with fried shallots, chili jam, lime juice, fresh mint and roasted coconut engaging with the steamed banana blossoms, chicken and shrimp in your mouth.
The Thai menu, created by chef Panida Pinyolaksana, runs dozens of dishes long. Turn to the “best of our menu” for help in winnowing the many choices. Let me steer you to pork belly — crisped in a wok in which chiles, garlic and oyster sauce get a head start — completed with onions, basil and a hint of butter. Another prize is the duck leg that shares its bowl with sour cabbage and egg noodles, the latter a nice sponge for the red coconut curry that fairly pulses with cumin.
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