Pink waves of mortadella — the Italian pork sausage that inspired bologna — are rippling over plates of antipasti, in sandwiches and on pizzas across L.A. It might even show up in your cocktail.
From the James Beard Foundation award semifinalists announced today, nominees for the annual restaurant and bar awards will be revealed on March 29.To Felix and Mother Wolf chef Evan Funke, mortadella’s time was long overdue. “I f—ing love mortadella,” he says. “I think it’s great that L.A. is having a moment, but Mortadellathe moment, always has been.
While some skew traditionalist, mortadella’s variances have been embraced across continents, giving the meat even more audience as it made its way into a range of cultures. Late 19th century Italian immigrants in Brazil made mortadella a staple for pockets of South America, later proving a childhood mainstay of restaurateur John Borghetti, co-owner of Los Feliz’s Nossa Caipirinha Bar.
“You find it in Brazil, or Portugal has a version of it, or France or throughout Italy,” he says, “which is nice because it gives me some leeway.” At wine bar Voodoo Vin, chef Travis Hayden pours pork fat cubes and pistachios into his emulsified mortadella mix.
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