I didn’t realize how wine could electrify the food its served with, until I went to Beckon.
, while I was in town visiting my sister last spring. It was one of those new fangled ticketed sort of deals—pay upfront for eight courses, whatever additions you want, tax, and tip—and I opted to add the $65 wine pairing, mostly because I was tickled by the idea that I wouldn’t even have to take out my credit card to pay for drinks at the end of the meal.
To be clear: I loved the food at Beckon. Every course that chef Duncan Holmes and his team passed across the counter to me was fresh and fascinating, made with equal parts care and creativity. But for the first time in my life, the wine I was being poured positivelythe food. Barely cooked California spot prawns lolling about in a verdant green spring gazpacho was delicious on its own but transcendent alongside a salty, floral albariño from Monterey, California.
More than anything, my meal at Beckon was a reminder of how rewarding it can be to take a chance, to put yourself in someone else’s hands and have the gamble pay off. “Trust is such a huge thing, and a really fragile thing,” Byers said. “If someone is giving it to you, then you have to make sure not to mess it up.” And if more sommeliers start thinking like that, then there are going to be a whole lot more wine pairings in my future.
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