In the pre-fall 2020 collections, the big ideas of spring 2020 have been synthesized into garments that prize wearability over flash.
The most obvious case here is that of the red carpet blancmange dress, which has been pared back into manageable layers of tulle or plissé pleats, creating a more manageable amount of drama.
Where party frocks are getting more reasonable, tailoring is getting more experimental, with brands like Givenchy, Dior, and Tory Burch offering suits in every color, shape, and style. Elsewhere, ’09 neons are staging a return—and so are black-and-white Blair Waldorf sass, late ’90s off-the-shoulder tops, and a certain Technicolor Bohemia.
If all this seems staunchly influenced by the past, consider the most alluring—and most contradictory—pieces of the season: Bottega Veneta’s latticework coat and Gucci’s structured slip dress. Both are experiments in construction, one to conceal and one to reveal, and both will look seriously fresh.
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