With a price tag a little below $200 million, the Tin Building is arguably the single most expensive and ambitious dining project in the history of New York. plattypants writes that it has everything — except a purpose
, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s new food bazaar at the South Street Seaport. Was this entirely fair? It was the middle of January, when most of gourmet New York is still sunk in a deep postholiday slumber; it was lunchtime, not a prime hour for the haute toro set; and it wasn’t even clear if my friend, a regular at the trendy sushi dens of Tokyo, had spent much time in the grand hotels of northern Texas. But peering around the room, you could see what he meant.
The Tin Building isn’t just any food court, however. With a price tag a little below $200 million, it is arguably the single most expensive and ambitious dining project in the history of this restaurant-mad city. There’s a caviar bar within its gilded confines, a working fish market, a boisterous boutique beer garden, a butcher and a cheesemonger, and on and on.
The Shikku lunch came on the second day of a bender I took through the two-story market-and-restaurant complex, during which I’d already enjoyed a surprisingly decent hot pastrami sandwich and a crispy-edged breakfast dosa stuffed with eggs, avocado, and deposits of melted cheese. I’d sipped glasses of dry Muscadet from the Loire Valley and lassis tinged with blueberry and cardamom.
Given the exorbitant cost, Rogers said she was surprised to find that the prices for calf’s liver and kale weren’t that bad. She admired the quality of a cookie she’d purchased, too, but she doubted she’d ever return to the market from her distant apartment on the Upper West Side and wasn’t optimistic about its future. “It’s Jean-Georges — of course he’s done a lovely job,” she said, gathering up her goods and heading out into the January gloom.
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