The Search for Real Döner Kebab at a Dozen New York Restaurants

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The Search for Real Döner Kebab at a Dozen New York Restaurants
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I went to a dozen other places before I landed here for what turns out to be a superlative sandwich (via EaterNY)

The new German chain restaurant Döner Haus.I started with places that identified themselves as German döner kebab spots, a couple of which have opened in the past few years, includingin DeKalb Market and elsewhere in Brooklyn and Manhattan, founded in New York based on German models. More recently, a competing establishment appeared at 240 E. 14th Street near Union Square, once again founded by an expat German based on old-country models.as soon as it opened late last month.

I was also disappointed to find only chicken and beef. I asked the clerk at the counter why no lamb, and she said, “Americans don’t like lamb.” Nevertheless, I ordered one sandwich of each and took them to Stuyvesant Park to eat. They were compiled on good bread, something like a stiff focaccia, with a generous amount of fillings and zippy sauces, but the meat itself was a bummer. The beef was like cardboard, the chicken marginally better but flavorless and clumpy.

Eventually, I started going to places that identified themselves as Turkish rather than German. I was excited to see a döner kebab spinning slowly in the window ofat 712 Ninth Avenue, near 49th Street, in Hell’s Kitchen. It was a cute place with comfortable seating despite its small size, and the staff was welcoming. I asked about the lamb döner and they enthusiastically described it as pure lamb.

I finally found lamb döner nirvana at Bereket’s successor, Ankara #3. My heart was thrilled to see not one or two, but four cylinders of meat rotating in the window, as a guy shaved them like a barber with a mean-looking knife.As is conventional, the lamb döner is offered on three kinds of bread — pocket pita, Turkish bread, and a wrap , the latter something like a flour tortilla.

It’s nice to think I can visit the place anytime I want for a lamb döner, and the menu also offers a veal gyro called yaprak in the Uzbeki style, which is also worth trying for its highly caramelized meat flavors.Thanks for signing up!Oops. Something went wrong. Please enter a valid email and try again.

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