The remarkable stories behind the most iconic Vogue photographs ever taken:
George Hoyningen-Huene / © The Hoyningen-Huene Estate / Courtesy Staley-Wise Gallery, New York
The corset photograph shows Horst’s expertise at its most deceptive. Although the figure appears to be lit from a fixed source to the right, he admitted that “it was far more complex than it looks, with extra spotlights and reflectors used”. Horst’s tendency to shroud his photographs in “artistic mystery” did not impress his editors. Edna Woolman Chase of Americanchastised him for “the lack of light” in his photography.
Not long before he died in 1999, aged 93, he recalled his famous picture: “I don’t know how I did it. I couldn’t repeat it. It was created by emotion…” For Horst, the corset photograph, made in Paris as old Europe dissolved in flames, marked the end of an era. When at last he returned to Paris after the war was over, it was no longer as a German; he had become naturalized as an American citizen. His mentor Huene was still going strong, though now at.
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