Perhaps more than any other isolated task, seasoning can either clinch or derail what you’re cooking.
My job is to help chefs write cookbooks, but I bumbled into the occupation with little culinary skill of my own. A specialist in preparing undercooked chicken, overcooked salmon, and incinerated broccolini, I am as familiar as any lay person with the myriad ways in which written instruction can fail amateurs in the kitchen. The goal of a recipe is to bridge the experience of a person who has already mastered a dish with that of a person who would like to make it for dinner.
I’ll admit that I often daydream of one day becoming the sort of cook who can assess a duck breast’s doneness with the gentle prod of a fingertip or determine, as the legendary Italian cookallegedly could, whether a dish is properly salted by smell alone. But in reality seasoning “to taste” strikes me as code for an aspirational aptitude that I and most others will never acquire.
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