The promise and perils of running a pop-up restaurant.
On February 14, around 5 p.m., Brian Bornemann was finally ready to plate the vegan Caesar salad in his five-course Valentine’s Day dinner menu. Presale tickets for the event had sold out, plus the host for the night saved some tables for walk-ins. Bornemann nervously eyed the wood for the grill and counted the boules of crusty bread again, hoping that he and his partner, Leena Culhane, had brought enough.
This is perhaps most apparent when a pop-up vendor partners with a landlord, who may have different objectives in the outcome of a pop-up. “At the end of the day, a landlord’s business model is centered on getting maximum revenue from their space,” says Nick Wiseman, who ran a Middle Eastern rotisserie chicken pop-up,, in Washington D.C.; it was an extension of the existing fast-casual concept by the same name.
Food halls are a useful comparison because they are similarly structured as a host and vendor partnership and because a restaurant’s best practices don’t always line up with the requirements of running a stall. Margaret Pak and Vinod Kalathil started their South Indian pop-upas a stall at the Politan Row food hall in Chicago. The gig was great for brand-building, but the amount of work didn’t justify the profits in the end.
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