The Four Seasons was a relic of a time in which very rich, mostly male regulars celebrated their power, and the power imbalance inherent to the culture, over lunch. chrisecrowley writes
The dining room at the new Four Seasons. Photo: Nitzan Rubin A mere ten months and $40 million after a splashy reopening, the Four Seasons restaurant will close its doors for good after lunch tomorrow. It’s a sudden, but not entirely surprising, end for the place, even though it was once the country’s most influential and — for most of its nearly 60-year run — most important restaurant.
Furniture, flatware, and other pieces of the original restaurant were auctioned off; someone paid $10,000 for a set of ashtrays. The tree-motif sign went for $96,000 — not counting sales tax or a 20 percent buyer’s premium. It was a Big Deal. People, Grub included, wrote tributes and obituaries. The restaurant meant something, and its closing marked a definitive end of an era.
The second location was conceived as a paean to the old days, and everything the Four Seasons name came to represent: power-brokering, expensive crab cakes, and VIP-only cotton candy. More than any other restaurant, the Four Seasons embodied the power lunch era, and all that it encompassed. Of course, the power lunch set is rapidly diminishing, and it’s hardly surprising that a new generation of diners wouldn’t, or couldn’t, create the business that the restaurant needed. .
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