One staffer's New Years tradition
in Brooklyn. I immediately recalled a spicy squid and udon noodle stir-fry I had eaten at Insa a few weeks before—a dish so good I lingered over it at the table for the better part of an hour, not wanting it to end. I had an idea: I would cook Sohui’srecipe for my family, have a rice cake revelation, and write about the process. If anyone could convince me to love this soup, or at least give it another chance, it was Sohui. I pitched the story to my editor. Game on.
So one Sunday, I took a bus to New Jersey and hit the local H-Mart to gather my ingredients: a hunk of lean brisket; a bag of fresh rice cake discs; scallions, ginger, garlic; a large moo, or Korean radish.I set up shop in my parents’ kitchen and got to work deeply browning the brisket cubes, grating the garlic, smashing the ginger. I filled the stockpot with water and let everything simmer for the next two hours as a dense, beefy scent filled the house.
I ignored them and kept stirring, skimming, tasting. I knew the broth was done when it was rich and dark, and the meat was so soft it practically shredded itself when I pressed on it with my thumb. In went a few glugs of fish sauce, lots of cracked black pepper, and thin slices of Korean radish. I’ve never eatenwith radishes before, but I have always loved the way their soft flesh yields when cooked, like a boiled turnip or carrot.
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