Noma — the foraging-happy Danish tasting den that has won every fine-dining award imaginable — will close in 2024, but it will live on as a food lab and series of pop-ups
, so if anyone has any info, can you please let him know? He might be able to hook you up with a table if you help track it down.) But the French Laundry will always be, at its core, a truffles-and-caviar kind of joint.
Noma’s arrival on the dining scene felt so momentous because it was designed to be a specific rejection of extant luxury values, favoring local and underutilized ingredients over traditional fine-dining tropes: Every earthenware plate that you encounter or lacto-fermented pickle you nibble owes some debt of gratitude to Redzepi’s work.
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