Chili crisp recipes have appeared more frequently online as more American home cooks explored bold and new flavors during the pandemic.
Lao Gan Ma doesn't exactly replicate the local flavors in Guiyang, its birthplace, which are mainly hot and sour. Although Lao Gan Ma manufactures dozens of varieties catering to different regional tastes, only several of them are exported to the U.S. The godmother brand has essentially become the sriracha of chili oil—honest to its roots but more favorable to a mainstream palate.
"We initially catered towards the immigrant population, the same type of people like my father who wanted to have hometown cooking," Wang said.This search for nostalgia and diverse flavors has spurred young chefs in the U.S. to create chili oil that best represents their respective cultures. But the false stereotype of Chinese cuisine as cheap and monolithic has made it challenging to innovate and charge customers a fairer price."We're not sushi.
The Fly By Jing chili crisp features a mix of three chilis with different heat levels. It also uses gongjiao, or tribute pepper, a rare and premium delicacy that was sent to the emperor as a tribute. Gao described her chili crisp as aromatic with a layered umami flavor and"a bit of a funk" from the fermented black beans.
Xi'an Famous Foods is a family-run fast-casual chain in New York City. Every day at lunch, a line forms outside of the restaurant locations with foodies seeking specialty dishes like spicy cumin lamb burgers and hand-ripped noodles.It's easy to dismiss the cost of premium ingredients and intensive labor when the West has perceived Chinese food as cheap and unrefined. Chefs like Gao and Wang are changing this dynamic by reeling in the hearts and stomachs of American diners and home cooks.
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