Family-run institution has been a dining mainstay for locals, politicos
Le Cheval
Business is down sharply at the family-run restaurant at Tenth and Clay streets, according to Son Tran, and it’s not a post-pandemic problem of too many local employees still working from home.The restaurant has been hit by burglars, he said, but the impact on customers has been worse. According to Bay Area News Group archives, Le Cheval first opened in 1985 on Jefferson Street. The family had arrived in 1975 via an airlift from Vietnam, Son Tran said. His father, My Ngoc Tran, worked for Bank of America in Saigon so he was able to find work at the bank in the United States. But four months after the family settled in Oakland, he died. His wife, Tuyet Bui, was a single mother of seven children in a country whose language she barely knew.
The matriarch reigned over the kitchen — then on Clay Street — and taught her five sons, two daughters and grandchildren about Vietnamese cooking. She retired in 1997.
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