SW9 is a microcosm of London’s culinary plurality
to make a glossy highlight reel of samey restaurants that entirely omits the Black and Afro-Caribbean food cultures upon which the area’s new “restaurant scene” first violently laid its foundations.
Mr “Come with me to Brixton” probably shouldn’t have taken all that flak; a TikTok is a symptom of a wider, deliberate malaise. In an area in which the Windrush generation weaved its cultural fabric since the 1950s, aggressive policing, poor provision of housing and amenities, and resultant local anger that brought riots in the 1980s and 1990s has given way to talk of “regeneration” — once wealthy, middle-class White British people moved in.
Honest Burger and Franco Manca, both now established brands with considerable financial clout and private equity backing, started in Brixton in the late 2000s — Franco Manca was a rebrand of a pizzeria that had been there since the 1980s. Black-owned businesses in the area have not been afforded comparable opportunities for growth and development, though Brixton Village’s championing of Adejoké Bakare’s Chishuru is a small counterpoint.
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