Move over, Katz’s!
now comes from Tatiana, a stunning new restaurant at Lincoln Center’s Geffen Hall that’s as thrilling to the taste buds as the music venue’s much-praised redesign is to the ears., Tatiana is where the Jewish-Romanian New York deli favorite met West Africa. Cured beef by way of Nigeria celebrates the cheerfully rules-breaking, culinary melting pot that an increasingly polyglot NYC has become.
short rib pastrami suya my favorite new dish of the decade. Sure, the decade’s still young — but it might be a long wait before anything better comes along. Served foot-long and on the bone, it’s a thick layer of flesh that’s been braised, slow-cured and aggressively spice-dusted . Served foot-long and on the bone, the Nigeria-inspired short rib pastrami suya at Tatiana in Lincoln Center is our critic’s dish of the decade, so far.The meat’s brined for three days in a spice mix that includes mustard seed, juniper, garlic and bay leaves. It’s next coated with a Nigerian-inspired suya blend, also known as yaji, lending notes of ginger, paprika and cayenne as it permeates the meat overnight. Three hours in the oven at 250 degrees allows the flavors to merge and deepen.
The result: beef that was supple enough on two different nights to nearly lick off the bone. The mingled flavors made a happy mosaic of pungent, nutty and peppery essences with not one of them dominating.
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