Creamy, silky, and loaded with flavor.
I have a problem with potato gratins. It's the same problem I have with muffins—I only want the top and usually neglect what's below deck. The interior of a poorly made potato gratin is bland, dry, and crumbly, but even the worst gratins have a savory and speckled crust. I'm not alone with my prejudice. Jeffrey Steingarten, the author of, developed an indulgent single-layer potato gratin recipe that yields a crusty-top-only dish.
In the testing, I found that too much cream breaks during the cooking, coating the potato slices in a slick of fat and masking their earthy flavor. On the other hand, gratins made completely with milk were dry and filled with crumbly curds. The combination of the two produced the best result. I found that a higher ratio of milk than cream added just enough fat to produce extra silky curds without becoming too rich.
I then seasoned the milk and cream mixture with a touch of freshly ground nutmeg and a generous dose of salt. You have to over-salt the milk mixture at this point so that it can properly season the potatoes. I also found that the gratin was more consistently seasoned when the salt was dissolved in the milk mixture rather than sprinkled in between the slices of potato.Because I want a gratin filled with creamy and tender potatoes that are also crisp on the sides and top, I turn to.
I combine the dairy with aromatics and bring to a boil, before covering to steep. Taking your time with this step is the best way to ensure a flavorful and seasoned final dish. After steeping, I bring the milk mixture up to a boil before straining into a bowl. Reheating the milk mixture cuts back on your total bake time and gets the potato slices soaking up all that flavor immediately. The recipe still works without this step, however it may take up to half an hour longer to bake in the oven.
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