Tasting the koeksuster economy of the Karoo

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Tasting the koeksuster economy of the Karoo
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Small-town bakers have become a critical financial lifeline for their families and communities in the Karoo.

Long before dawn’s early light streaks the Karoo skies, dozens of kitchens in the Eastern Cape town of Cradock are already on the buzz.

Anything that is labelled #9 and sold from Dit en Dat in Cradock is baked and supplied by Rika de Vos and her husband Francois . of cakes is cooling on her stoep, under protective gauze. She usually bakes and ices 16 cakes a day and then, when occasion demands, she’ll also be making rusks andMaswazandile “Maswazi” Mabusela, the breakfast chef at the Victoria Manor , is up and preparing to head early to the hotel kitchen to try out a new recipe he has devised with bread-mad manager David Ker.

Unlike the others, she’s a night owl, baking until midnight and often into the early hours. Annemarie is known for her milk tart, chocolate cake, Greek shortcake and cheesecake. Her three daughters – Inge, Hildegard and Ulrike – each have their own specialties on offer there.A freshly baked and iced coffee cake from D’licious. People in the platteland have learnt to make a plan with long-life items in the pantry – which is how Cremora and Caramel Tart originated.

The success of cooks and bakers leans heavily on Cradock’s very active social life. If it’s not a child’s birthday, then it’s a bridge tournament or a tennis match, book club, garden club or a birthday, christening, wedding, funeral or anniversary. There is no advertising and no branding. But each member is allocated a number, and buyers quickly learn who makes the carrot cakes, pies or rusks they love the best. It’s all about word of mouth and consistency in quality.

Home baker Ellen Taks loves rising early to make the goods she’ll sell that day – like these Malay-style Koesisters, delicately flavoured with mixed spice and cinnamon. “We would be up at 5am, and often we’d only get to bed by 11 that night, absolutely exhausted. There was no time to have a family. But if I had to live my life over, I’d do it all again. I loved it! We’d mix and bake side by side, then Marita would go and deliver, and I’d start mixing the next batch.

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