Stefan Cooke and his life and work partner Jake Burt, have built a menswear label that blurs lines around gender, history and social class. Now the creative duo have taken on womenswear.
“We’ve been planning it for actually quite a long time and it felt right to do it. We wanted it to be really succinct, but also really tactile….It’s really amazing to actually do dressmaking. It’s more limitless and dynamic,” Cooke said backstage.
They didn’t just make the men’s leather bombers and denim jackets two sizes smaller and call it a day. There were tactile dresses and tops decorated with ribbons and cheerleading skirts that are more bodycon than the brand’s signature pleated miniskirts for men. Emma Corrin would look great in these looks.
The concept of the collection is still about how they can turn something worthless for most, but of high sentimental value into an expensive fashion statement. The duo has done so before with family heirlooms, and vintage pieces they found in thrift stores. For example, the clear sequins seen on T-shirts and crop tops were inspired by an old T-shirt with the words “foam party” on it. Burt got it from eBay for one pound. He left it in a box and he didn’t open it until they were moving the studio to Tottenham Hale.
Meanwhile, acid-washed denim pieces — where jackets and long skirts were made by stitching jeans side seams together to create a protective armour effect — were arguably the strongest new looks Cooke and Burt offered this season.
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