Smoking Is for Everyone

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Smoking Is for Everyone
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“I love propane smokers, and I’m probably the only Barbecue Hall of Famer who will say that aloud,” meathead Goldwyn said, adding, “The barbecue world is full of snobs.”

When I was growing up in Chicago, my father and I had a semi-annual ritual: pick up a slab and a half of sticky baby-back ribs from our favorite South Side barbecue spot, sneak their drippy Styrofoam containers into our ostensibly kosher-keeping home, then devour them while watching James Bond movies on basic cable. Those particular ribs, sugar-sweet and overcooked, were not the type of thing that might win awards or send a food critic into raptures, but they awakened something primal in me.

When it comes to barbecue, as with so many masculine-coded activities, the gear options are infinite, the bickering and unsolicited-advice-giving endless. There is the question of fuel: Charcoal, logs, electric, pellets? The cookbook “,” one of the most detailed guides to the practice that’s ever been put to paper, spends fourteen pages explaining how to source perfect wood.

Propane cabinet smokers “are not allowed in most barbecue competitions because organizers consider them too easy,” the barbecue savant Meathead Goldwyn writes in his indispensable guide, “: The Science of Great Barbecue and Grilling.” For me, that was endorsement enough, but when I called Goldwyn recently he did one better. “I love propane smokers, and I’m probably the only Barbecue Hall of Famer who will say that aloud,” he said, adding, “The barbecue world is full of snobs.

With so many of the modern products that help us feed ourselves, the goal is mindlessness—the Instant Pot, the frozen pizza, the microwavable burrito. I am a devotee of all of these, but sometimes abit of effort pays off. Start with a chicken. All it needs is some spice rub, or maybe just a sprinkle of salt. Give the bird twenty minutes of smoke. An extra handful of chips, another twenty minutes. And then there’s nothing but waiting.

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