Hedi Slimane turned his back on black Friday in one of the biggest about-turns in years on the Paris catwalk.
The superstar French designer, famed for his love of black, was dubbed the “Trump of fashion” after trashing the legacy of his much-loved feminist predecessor at Celine, Phoebe Philo, in his first women’s show for the brand in October.
His new cool gang are a glammy 1980s horsey set, with pleated riding skirts in earthy browns, greens and taupes worn with long shiny boots.The show featured a glittering gold blouson jacket. AFP/Philippe LOPEZ The man they once called the “Sultan of skinny” — and for whom Karl Lagerfeld lost 42 kilograms to squeeze into his black jeans — even got a few frilly blouses in too. All that was lacking was the pearls.
Friedman, however, had no doubt that the oxblood shearling-edged thigh-high boots that Slimane teamed with jeans and camel coats and capes in the show were a winner.While there was some slight nods to the Philo’s legion of grieving followers — who have made her past Celine collections collector’s items — Slimane leapfrogged over her minimalism to go deep into the brand’s archives in search of inspiration.
His first collection took an unprecedented kicking from English-speaking critics in particular, with social media spats between his defenders — the Slimaniacs — and Philo supporters, the Philophiles.
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