We speak with the Irish designer about her first collection
Simone Rocha's show at London Fashion Week was as much an act of catharsis as an exhibition of clothes. “It's never happened to me before that I've come out [after] and cried,” the 36-year-old says over the phone from her studio. “There was a lot of tension and then release.” This, despite her longstanding career, was just one of a few firsts from that show – another being the location’s bright environment, having favoured gothic arenas in the past.
Rocha’s spring/summer ’23 menswear show was set at the Old Bailey, filled with the history of those who’ve had to witness their futures change at the slam of a gavel. “We were showing men, but also [in a location] where the Suffragettes were trialled and found guilty,” says Rocha. “It was so weighted.” This emotional charge served as the background for the collection; the press release listing fragility, remorse and anger as key moods.
Masculinity has similarly been tugging in different directions as of late, from the ‘truth-telling’ podcasters who have the manly-man hostage, to those who recognise that being a 'simp' – Gen-Z slang for men who are nice to women – shouldn’t be an insult. Rocha’s clothes are for the latter. “I was interested in looking at this idea of masculinity, and the sensitivity that can be juxtaposed with it… I gravitated to the honest and the vulnerable side.
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