When most people think of flatbreads from India, they imagine naans, parathas, and chapatis
. When I tell him I’m writing about sheermal, he is momentarily quiet before narrating the history of the dish, then describing how to make it from start to finish, as if he means to say, “It’s easy, isn’t it?”
Sheermal dough, once mixed, can be leavened with either yeast, baking soda, or a natural starter culture before being baked in an iron tandoor . The reason for using an iron tandoor rather than a clay one is to ensure that the dough sticks while it cooks at a low temperature. Some Awadhi food historians also argue that, traditionally, clay tandoors were reserved for commoners.
When Ustaad Imitiaz Qureshi—the godfather of modern Awadhi cuisine and chef Ghulam Qureshi’s father-in-law—first opened Dum Pukht, he served his sheermal with a: an exceptionally tender regional specialty made from finely minced, fatty goat meat, skewered and cooked in a coal-fired tandoor.
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