A lot has changed since 2017, when Shayne Oliver put Hood by Air on hiatus, but the constant in the designer's work is his ability to electrify and challenge the fashion system. That's exactly what he did for his NYFW presentation.
The fashion system loves an easy, obvious, almost thoughtless statement—“This collection is inspired by my trip to [insert remote gorgeous locale here].” Oliver’s work evades simple explanations. He’s bringing fashion, music, culture, performance, and art together, layered with experimentation and realized with the help of a vast community network. Hood by Air was more comprehensible as one thing: The industry called it streetwear.
But he is definitely aware of his alt standing in fashion. He is the most insider of outsiders, obsessed over by the most influential art directors, retailers, editors, stylists, and shoppers, but is rarely granted the same status and unquestioned praise as those who play by the fashion rules.
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