Sharks have turned up as “mystery meat” in Brazil, in some pet food in the U.S., and at some fish-and-chip shops in the U.K. and Australia.
. It placed them under Appendix II of the treaty, which means countries can no longer export them unless they certify that it won’t hurt shark sustainability. Yet how to assess that question remains controversial.
“Most don’t,” he says, adding that even if fishers want to return sharks to the waters, they’re often dead by the time fishers haul them up.Paraná, a Brazilian state located south of Cananéia, enacted legislation this year that requires sellers to label shark at stores. But Charvet, of the Federal University of Ceará showed me photos from her local grocery store, which had frozen cação for sale.
Later that week, in Peruíbe, a town whose name means “river of sharks” in the Indigenous Tupi language, I meet a man who’s searching for mako to barbeque that day. He moves from one artisanal fish stall to the next; he doesn’t want the darker meat of the hammerhead that’s on offer, he says. “It tastes too much like ammonia—like urine,” he says. He doesn’t seem concerned, or possibly even aware, of the legal issues around fishers capturing one species versus another.
As the soup bubbles and the odor mixes with that of all the other tasty seafood being prepared my stomach starts to grumble. I feel conflicted about wanting some. Santander-Neto and I eventually order the grouper and shrimp muqueca. The bones in the dish are comforting: Santander-Neto assures me that their presence means we are not eating any shark. The fishy flavor resonates clearly through the simple, savory dish.
Moreover, if the restrictions are enforced, “mako sharks are fighters,” he says, and they will be so stressed and exhausted fighting the line or the net that they’ll die anyway after they’re caught.
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