A new 250-mile trail lures tourists away from popular peaks through dense forests, ancient fortresses, and terraced rice paddies
: Paro Taktsang monastery is a cliffside Buddhist temple in the upper Paro Valley in Bhutan. Accessible only by foot, the site is one of 13 small “tiger lairs” where eighth-century Buddhist master Padmasambhava, also known as Guru Rinpoche, is said to have meditated.One part of the strategy has arrived in the form of more barriers to entry. The “sustainable development fee,” a daily tourist tariff,. The TBT constitutes another part.
This section of the route, from the Dochu La pass down to the village of Toeb Chandana, typifies the landscape that the TBT is designed to showcase: not the Bhutan of high snows, but the foothill country of ancient fortresses, Buddhist monasteries, and, constellations of traditional homesteads and terraced rice paddies. Most of the trail’s 28 stages run through the dense forests, both coniferous and deciduous, that cover 71 percent of the country.
Kinley Wangmo, a tour guide in Bhutan, stands on a trail in the pine forest above Gyetsa, in the Bumthang District.The path dropped into a sharply incised gorge. Every tree branch was festooned with moss and translucent ferns. Joro spiders with yellow- and black-striped abdomens sat motionless in lattices of cobweb at the trailside.
That day the only sound was bird and cricket-song. But there was a time when this path would have resounded with foot traffic. The TBT follows, fleet-footed runners carrying messages between its 20 districts, or
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