Rosh Hashanah Traditions: How The Holiday Table Evolves

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Rosh Hashanah Traditions: How The Holiday Table Evolves
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From Jello molds and pineapple-shaped chopped liver, to pomegranate chicken and shitake and oyster mushroom brisket, we look at traditions old and new.

My mom was born in Newark, but raised in Pico-Robertson. Her parents, Selma and Vic, moved to the neighborhood less for the synagogues and more for the delis — and the ritzy proximity to Beverly Hills.My mom’s fondest memories of Rosh Hashanah were at the kid’s table in the early 70s, over the hill in Canoga Park at her Nana and Auntie Jan’s house.

Her own family background is Ashkenazi — she grew up in Shaker Heights in Cleveland, a predominantly Jewish neighborhood — and her most potent Rosh Hashanah memories are of her grandma’s matzo ball soup and all of the kids wildly running around her grandparent’s penthouse. King uses pomegranates because they’re another symbolic fruit for Rosh Hashanah, representing fertility and abundance. Megan Tucker is the Culinary Institute of America-trained chef behind pop-up Mort & Bettys, a Philly-style plant-based Jewish deli. “Everything is made from scratch — and there’s no fake meat here, it’s all seasonal produce," Tucker said.

It’s cooked in kosher red wine with tomatoes, onions, nutritional yeast, bay leaves, thyme, garlic, and what Tucker calls “real baby carrots, not the cut kind — carrots are so important to soaking up the flavors in the brisket.” The Heller Family: Josh, bottom left, his father Kenn, upper left. Sister Ally, upper right and his mother Babette, lower right

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