Chef Zubair Mohajir’s best dishes at Wazwan and The Coach House explore unexpected connections between Indian cultures and cuisines in Chicago's Wicker Park neighborhood.
The pani puri at The Coach House by Wazwan restaurant on Division Street in Chicago on Feb. 2, 2023. It's a version of a popular spherical snack in India.
But he’s no rookie. After growing up Chennai, India , along with some time in Doha, Qatar, he moved with his family to the Chicago region when he was in seventh grade. After a frustrating career in finance, he pivoted to cooking, and within a few years found himself working at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bistro in Yountville, California, before returning to Chicago to start his own pop-up.
The Coach House by Wazwan, located in a literal coach house accessed by walking through Wazwan and past the courtyard, is open, airy and genteel. The music drops in volume, while the service becomes polished and polite. You can only visit by signing up for the eight-course tasting menu, which goes for $150 per person.There should be a rule stating that everyone must start with the Nihari momo.
Both dishes are so artfully composed and brilliantly seasoned that it’s hard not to wonder why Mohajir didn’t go all in with Wazwan. Perhaps the economics don’t work anymore for this kind of small, yet approachable chef-driven restaurant, but with servers and a larger menu, it’s easy to imagine Wazwan joining the ranks of Chicago neighborhood favorites like Giant and Mi Tocaya Antojeria.
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